Using Music To Start A Fashion Brand

Interview with Adidem Asterisks co-founder, Xavier Miller

Adidem Asterisks: https://www.instagram.com/adidem.asterisks/

Esteban: How did the brand get started? Any unique or special stories you could share? Anything that stands out from the early days.

Xavier: Our brand was founded by three childhood friends, Nicko Nuamah, Jonathan Ishak, and myself, who shared a passion for music and clothing. Just before Adidem was born, I created a few products, including a long sleeve shirt with embroidered script and a tote bag—designs that seem amusingly rudimentary now. In 2017, my partners were traveling to Hong Kong for vacation. Nicko, who was honing his photography skills, shot these products during their trip. Reflecting on it now, the products were the least significant part of that spontaneous look-book.

Esteban: What unique need or problem do you think it fulfilled? What made it stand out?

Xavier: Adidem fulfilled a need for a brand that seamlessly integrated music, events, and fashion, something we felt was missing in the market. Our authentic connection to these worlds and our grassroots approach helped us stand out.

Esteban: Is that what still makes it stand out today?

Xavier: Yes, our commitment to the synergy of music, events, and fashion remains a core differentiator. It continues to define our brand's identity and appeal.

Esteban: What were the biggest challenges early on?

Xavier: The biggest challenge was learning how to create with minimal resources. When we started, Toronto's fashion scene lacked grassroots brands like ours, so we had to learn everything in real-time, without a local blueprint to follow.

Esteban: What pieces of general advice would you give yourself if you had to go back to those early days?

Xavier: The most important advice would be to start immediately and not wait.

Esteban: What about creative and business advice?

Xavier: Every journey in creativity and business is unique. Being a good creative doesn't automatically mean you're good at business, and vice versa. Some people enter the industry with strengths in both areas, while others develop these skills over time. I’d advise my younger self to understand the industry's cycles. The pandemic, in particular, highlighted this need for adaptability.

Esteban: Adidem Asterisks is clearly founded on the intersection of music, events, and fashion. What have you learned about how these three things interact creatively?

Xavier: For me, the synergy between music and fashion has always been clear. The musicians I admired were my first fashion icons. Once I developed DJing skills, merging these worlds became a reality.

Esteban: What about how they interact from a business perspective?

Xavier: Music is the heartbeat of our brand. We ensure our campaigns are driven by sound and provide our audience with a weekly show. This approach offers our consumers a way to connect with our brand without having to purchase a product. We also extend this connection to nightlife, with eight DJs under our Asterisks* Radio label.

Esteban: How strategic vs intuitive has the process been so far? Was there a plan? Or was it feeling led?

Xavier: Building this brand has been a mix of strategy and intuition. While strategic planning has been crucial, some of our best decisions emerged from following our instincts. Initially, being too strategic might have hindered our understanding of the consumer.

Esteban: What about now? How has your approach changed/evolved?

Xavier: Our approach remains strategic, but we've learned to balance it with intuition. As we scale the business, being intentional with every decision is vital.

Esteban: What have been the most recurring challenges for you? Has it been production, distribution, marketing, HR, etc.?

Xavier: The most recurring challenge has been establishing our brand in the right markets and building global wholesale accounts. Ensuring we are included among the names we aspire to be associated with is essential for our growth.

Esteban: Why do you think this has been the most recurring problem?

Xavier: Coming from a place not traditionally known for its fashion ecosystem, being an independent label presents unique challenges. These tasks are quintessential to our growth and identity.

Esteban: How has your experience so far changed how you perceive fashion? How would you define fashion when you started versus how you define it now?

Xavier: Fashion, like any art form, is constantly evolving. We're in an era of fast media consumption, which can make it easy to get caught up in trends that seem gimmicky. Initially, I didn't understand the value of things, but with experience, I've learned to recognize true value, from money to relationships.

Esteban: Now more specifically, how did you define streetwear when you started versus how would you define it now?

Xavier: When I started in 2018, we were at the beginning of a streetwear renaissance, which continues today. Streetwear can now be broken down into various sub-genres, with blurred lines between streetwear and luxury. Some brands charge luxury prices for streetwear, a practice I don't subscribe to, but it highlights the evolving business landscape.

Esteban: Looking at everything you have achieved in hindsight, what do you attribute the success so far to?

Xavier: The resilience of my team has been key to our success.

Esteban: What is next for the brand and the vision?

Xavier: Our vision is to continue growing globally through wholesale and event activation worldwide.

Esteban: What would be the biggest piece of advice you would give other aspiring fashion designers or entrepreneurs? Essentially, what do you wish somebody else had told you, or you wish you had learned faster?

Xavier: My advice is to start now. If you want to learn quickly, you must be prepared to fail even faster.