These Mysterious Chinese Designers Started a Brand With No Logo — And It Worked

An Interview with NULLUS

Esteban: Let’s start at the beginning: what’s the origin story of NULLUS? What were the foundations?

Benjamin: We started the brand together—Jeremy studied fashion design and Niko studied environmental art design. The combination works really well because our perspectives are different but complementary. We began with the desire to create something that felt personal—clothes we wanted to wear and see out in the world. That was back in 2021.

Esteban: And the name—NULLUS—where does that come from?

Jeremy: We were playing around with the idea of “nothing.” NULLUS is an ancient Latin word for nothing. We loved how clean and stripped back it sounded. Eventually the English word "null" came from that. It clicked with our vision—we wanted to build a brand that erased the idea of branding.

Niko: That’s why we started with the concept of nullifying the label. Our label is hollowed out—it’s like a window or a paneled cutout. Some pieces even treat the label as a design element. But always with the idea of focusing on the garment itself—not the brand.

Esteban: So it’s intentionally anti-logo.

Jeremy: Exactly. That was important to us. We had both worked at another menswear brand before, and that experience shaped a lot of our thinking. We saw how branding can sometimes overpower design. With NULLUS, the garment comes first.

Benjamin: Yeah, I was also at that brand—managing operations. After we left, Jeremy and Niko started creating pieces on their own. I remember when they showed me their first few samples—based on the hollow label idea—I was like, okay, this is something real. That’s when we decided to build it together.

Esteban: And how did that evolve into your first full collection?

Jeremy: It started with that one garment. Then we made a few more—maybe five total. At some point, we realized it could be a proper collection. We named it Chain Reaction. It was still very early, very raw, but it felt honest.

Esteban: How’d you fund it?

Benjamin: Our own savings. Some help from family. There weren’t any investors. We kept it small—just enough to make samples, shoot a lookbook, and do our first showroom. The goal wasn’t profit—it was momentum.

Esteban: And where did you show it?

Benjamin: We started in China. And surprisingly, we got orders straight away. That gave us a real confidence boost.

Esteban: What do you think buyers responded to?

Jeremy: We didn’t compromise on materials. We used Riri zippers. Charles Clayton wool from England. Not many young Chinese brands go that route because the costs are insane. But we didn’t want to hold back. That kind of attention to detail made a difference.

Esteban: But at those costs, were you profitable?

Benjamin: Not at all. The margins were barely there. We priced low because we were new and needed to enter the market. But everything we made went right back into the brand. We were betting on volume and long-term positioning.

Esteban: Have the margins improved?

Benjamin: A little. We raised prices once—for AW23—because fabric and production costs shot up. But even then, the margin stayed flat. We’re still prioritizing accessibility over short-term gains.

Esteban: What’s been the hardest part so far?

Benjamin: Cash flow. No question. Especially because we’re picky about stockists. We only want to work with partners who really get us. So we’ve had to turn down money, which obviously makes things tighter.

Esteban: So you just focused on product and trusted it would work?

Benjamin: That, and really smart spending. We focused our budget on garments, the lookbook, and showroom space. We didn’t waste money on anything that didn’t directly help the collection.

Esteban: How do you drive sell-through?

Benjamin: We do a lot. We handle our social media and PR internally—Jeremy’s really sharp with that. We also have a PR company. But the biggest thing is training. Every season I visit our stockists and train their staff. A lot of our pieces are multi-form—they transform or layer in different ways—so if the staff don’t understand that, they can’t sell it. We also follow up during the season to support any styles that are struggling.

Esteban: Talk to me about your creative philosophy.

Niko: We like to work with minimal forms, but push construction. It’s about subtle depth—garments that reveal more the closer you look. Everyday wear, but with hidden creativity.

Jeremy: And there’s the emotional side too. Our concept is built around the idea that men are still boys. We’re competitive. We argue. We play games in the office. There’s ego, but also softness. The sword belt is a great example—it’s tough, but delicate too. That tension is what drives the design.

Esteban: What was the idea behind your last season?

Jeremy: Timeless Boys Part 1. We want to explore how childhood instincts mature over time. And also how they never really go away. For example, we saw the movie Omelone on the plane back from Paris—it brought us right back to being kids. That whole vibe seeped into the collection.

Esteban: So you’re now showing in Paris?

Benjamin: Yeah. January 2024 was our first time, then again in June. It was a crazy sprint—only three months between Shanghai and Paris. People told us not to do it, that we weren’t ready. But we trusted ourselves and did it anyway.

Esteban: If you had to start over, what would you tell yourselves?

Jeremy: Stop doubting. We got so much outside advice—"make it cheaper," "make it safer." But we always knew what we wanted. I’d tell my past self to ignore the noise.

Benjamin: Yeah, same. We took a difficult path—premium partners only, small margins. But it built the right foundation. I’d tell myself to stay patient and not second-guess that decision.

Esteban: What’s the worst advice you’ve received?

Jeremy: People telling us to lower our fabric quality just to sell more. That would’ve destroyed what we were trying to do.

Benjamin: For me, it was people saying, "Don’t go to Paris yet." We took the risk. It wasn’t our most profitable season, but it was the one that leveled us up. No regrets.

Esteban: Amazing, thank you for sharing, and incredible work guys.

Jeremy: Yeah—thank you, Esteban. This means a lot to us.