The Blueprint For Starting A Responsible Brand

An interview with Stella Nova founder Trine Skoller.

Stella Nova: https://www.instagram.com/stellanovacopenhagen/

Esteban: First of all, thank you for taking the time and for being willing to share your insights. I really appreciate it.

Trine: Thank you for reaching out. It’s my pleasure.

Esteban: To get the conversation started—could you give us a brief bio of about 30 to 60 seconds so people can have some context?

Trine: Yes, I’ll try. I’m educated as a fashion designer from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Copenhagen. Right after finishing my education, I started working on a project that was also my final school project—making new clothes out of old clothes, essentially renewing secondhand items. I did that for several years and sold to high-end stores. It was fun and quite ahead of its time, but I found that it was very limited in scale. I missed doing something more upscale.

Esteban: So, it was more about the limitations in infrastructure or pricing and positioning?

Trine: It was more about the production line being very limited. Each item was unique—there was only one of each, almost like a small piece of art. But that also meant it wasn’t scalable. I was more of a freelancer designing and selling individual products rather than building a brand.

Esteban: You were working in unique production rather than mass production.

Trine: Exactly. Later on, I worked with different fashion brands as a designer but always felt that what drove me wasn’t fashion in the traditional sense—it wasn’t about what color was going to be in fashion next summer. It was more about storytelling, adding value to the product in a different way.

Esteban: Of course. That’s interesting. So, can you tell us a bit about what you’re doing now with Stella Nova?

Trine: Yes, sure. At Stella Nova, we don’t do traditional collections—we call them “wardrobes,” and each wardrobe has a name that represents its story. The inspiration for each wardrobe comes from its name. It’s about more than just fashion; it’s about creating stories through clothes. But I also want the pieces to be wearable and versatile, not just for special occasions.

Esteban: That’s fascinating. So, what motivates you more is the storytelling aspect rather than following fashion trends?

Trine: Yes, definitely. Fashion is interesting in itself—why people dress the way they do, what’s culturally relevant, how people express themselves through clothes. But for me, it’s more about telling a story and adding value through the details and design choices.

Esteban: When you look at what has made Stella Nova stand out in the market, what do you think it is? Is it the storytelling, the fact that you don’t follow traditional collections, or something else?

Trine: I think it’s a mix of things. Storytelling is a big part of it, but also the way we mix contrasts—boring with playful, strict with decorative, masculine with feminine. It’s a holistic approach to design. And in business, it’s also about being holistic—thinking about how we treat people, how we produce, ensuring everything is well thought out.

Esteban: Interesting. Is the brand’s strongest market Scandinavia, or do you have a global presence? How does the business look in terms of market spread and online versus offline sales?

Trine: We sell quite a lot online, but we also have markets abroad in different areas. So, we have a global presence, though some markets are bigger than others. There’s a good spread, especially through our online platform.

Esteban: If you put yourself in your customers' shoes, why do you think they buy Stella Nova? What would they say?

Trine: I think they like the playful universe we create. They appreciate the quality, versatility, and the fact that our pieces can be dressed up or down for different occasions. We often hear from customers that they’ve had an item for years and still wear it, or their daughters wear it too. That’s the kind of feedback we love to hear.

Esteban: That’s great. And when you compare Stella Nova to other brands, especially in Copenhagen, what makes you most proud of what you’ve built?

Trine: I’m proud that we’re still standing after so many years—22 years, to be exact. The business has changed so much over the years, especially with new regulations and restrictions. Adapting to new ways of working has been demanding, but I’m proud that we’ve managed to transform and keep going.

Esteban: That’s an incredible achievement. What do you think has helped Stella Nova survive for so long?

Trine: Consistency, transparency, delivering good quality products on time—those are key. Designing is one thing, but ensuring the right producers, timely deliveries, and effective communication are just as important. It’s a big chain, and if one link is weak, it affects everything.

Esteban: Consistency across the board, in design, quality, production, communication—that’s a lot to manage. What’s helped you maintain that consistency over the years?

Trine: Focus and a clear vision. It’s also about staying ahead, especially with the new restrictions and certifications. We’ve always aimed to be transparent and do things the right way, even if it’s costly and time-consuming.

Esteban: And how have things changed in the business over the past few years, especially with new regulations?

Trine: The biggest change has been in how we approach production—being aware of all the restrictions, ensuring transparency, and making sure we’re producing in a responsible way. Consumers are also more aware, and there’s a growing demand for ethical products.

Esteban: With all these changes, if you had to start Stella Nova from scratch today, what would you do differently?

Trine: I’m not sure I’d do anything differently. I’d still focus on being aware of restrictions, avoiding certain materials, and ensuring transparency. But I’d also emphasize the need for consumers to understand the value of paying for quality and ethical production.

Esteban: Do you think the biggest challenge today is navigating these regulations, or is there something else?

Trine: Right now, that’s one of the biggest challenges. It’s not always easy to do things the right way, especially with higher costs for recycled materials and the complexity of the supply chain. But I believe in the importance of educating ourselves and our suppliers to improve gradually.

Esteban: Do you think the responsibility for improvement lies more with brands, consumers, or the industry as a whole?

Trine: It’s a mutual responsibility. Brands need to produce responsibly, but consumers also need to understand what they’re buying and why it’s worth paying for ethically produced items. It’s about everyone doing their part.

Esteban: And from a leadership perspective, how do you see that responsibility? What does it look like for a brand owner?

Trine: Good leadership, a strong vision, and resilience are key. You need to be able to face difficulties without being overwhelmed. It’s also important to stay true to your core values and ethics, even when things get tough.

Esteban: That makes a lot of sense. And for those starting out in the industry, especially with a conscious brand, what would you say are the biggest rewards, despite the challenges?

Trine: There are so many rewards—creating a good work environment, fulfilling the dream of building something unique, and seeing your ideas come to life. It’s also about the relationships you build with your team and suppliers. It’s fulfilling on many levels.

Esteban: Thank you so much, Trine, for this insightful conversation. It’s been incredibly educational and refreshing.

Trine: Thank you, Esteban. It was lovely talking with you.