Starting A Japanese Footwear Brand

An Interview with Shin, a member of Japanese Footwear Brand OAO

In this conversation, I sat down with Shin, a team member of Japanese footwear brand OAO, to discuss the brand's origins, product philosophy, and growing international presence. With a foundation rooted in functional design and Japanese aesthetics, OAO is evolving into a global label while staying true to its core.

Esteban: Can you start by introducing OAO for those who aren’t familiar?

Shin: Sure. OAO was launched in 2020 during the COVID pandemic, so we’ve just completed our fifth year and are now entering our sixth. We're based in Japan, and right now, about 95% of our customers are Japanese. That said, we’re seeing a steady increase in customers from outside Japan — especially from Taiwan, China, Korea, and also among Asian-American audiences in the U.S. A big moment was when a friend who creates content on TikTok posted about OAO. That brought in a lot of attention, particularly from people who are Asian or Asian-American and resonate with the aesthetic.

Esteban: How would you describe the gender breakdown of your customer base?

Shin: It’s pretty balanced now — close to 50/50. When we launched as a sneaker brand, our customers were mostly men, which makes sense because sneaker culture tends to be more male-dominated. But in 2022, we released the Sunlight model, and it really resonated with women in Japan. The design — the silhouette, the materials, the stitching — just really connected. Since then, the gender split has balanced out significantly.

Esteban: Is the Sunlight model also the most popular overseas?

Shin: Not exactly. It’s very popular in Japan, especially among women, but preferences vary by region. European and American customers often gravitate toward more minimal or classic styles. In contrast, the Sunlight is more expressive — a lifestyle piece with bold details. For example, in the U.S., people tend to favor our simpler models that have more structure and less dramatic design. It’s a good reminder that taste is culturally shaped.

Esteban: Let’s talk about your design process. Who designs the shoes?

Shin: Our core design team is in Tokyo — three of us work together at the main office. We also collaborate with an external designer who has a background in art and stage costume design. His work is very artistic, not typical commercial footwear. Some of his designs aren’t even wearable — they’re more conceptual. But he brings an artistic direction to OAO that helps shape our collections in a deeper way.

Esteban: You mentioned THE CURVE1  AERO. What’s the story behind it?

Shin: That was our first hybrid silhouette — it blends sneaker and sandal characteristics and was made for summer wear. You can wear it barefoot or with socks. It was inspired by a prominent female Japanese architect we admire deeply. The design was a tribute to her legacy — functional, minimal, and human-centered. Every OAO piece starts with a reference or concept. It’s not just aesthetic — it has a story behind it.

Esteban: You recently hosted an event with a well-known European design furniture company. Was that a collaboration?

Shin: Not officially — it was more organic. We met someone from their team by chance and connected over shared values. They offered us their Tokyo showroom for an event. Usually, it's used internally, but they wanted to open it up to the public. We’re always searching for unique places to host gatherings — we’ve done dinner parties, club nights, and exhibitions. This was a natural fit. They wanted the right crowd and vibe, and we had experience creating those types of moments.

Esteban: As you expand into the U.S., how do you want the brand to be perceived?

Shin: We want to stay rooted in what makes OAO unique — functional Japanese aesthetics. But we’re aware that American consumers often need more context or emotional connection, especially if they aren’t familiar with our background. So we’ll likely adjust the storytelling a bit. In Korea, for example, celebrity marketing is key. In the U.S., we might focus more on heritage, craft, and authenticity. Each market responds to different signals.

Esteban: Do you consider OAO a luxury brand?

Shin: That’s a hard question. In Japan, we’re considered premium. Our shoes are more expensive than mainstream brands like Nike or Adidas, but still much more affordable than traditional luxury footwear. So we position OAO as affordable luxury — high design value and craftsmanship, but still accessible. Our pricing usually starts around $250 and goes up to about $500. It’s not entry-level, but it’s still within reach for customers who appreciate thoughtful design.

Esteban: Why are you expanding into clothing now, instead of focusing exclusively on footwear?

Shin: Footwear will always be our core, but it’s limiting in terms of storytelling. Clothing gives us more freedom to express our design language — whether that’s architectural inspiration, material experimentation, or seasonal moods. Also, other brands we admire have followed this path. When you grow, it makes sense to explore new formats. Clothing also allows for broader creative expression — it’s easier to build full collections and share the deeper aesthetic world of OAO.

Esteban: If you had to describe the brand in two words, what would they be?

Shin: Functional aesthetics. That’s the balance we always aim for — beautiful, thoughtful design that serves a purpose. It’s not just about looking good. It’s about how it feels to wear it, how it performs, and how it fits into your life. That’s why we care so much about things like material quality, construction, and comfort — not just visual identity.